Making Friends in Il Capo Market

Palermo has three ancient markets: Vucciria, Ballarò, and Il Capo. Vucciria isn’t what it was 40 years ago when Renato Guttuso painted it, which is perhaps a good thing. Now, during the day, it is smaller and host to a few food stands and many antiques and collectible vendors. At night, however, when it comes alive as an outdoor social center, it is THE place to be! Ballarò is expansive and somewhat of a maze of fruit, vegetables, and animal parts that haunt me in my sleep. It seems endless and boasts some of the best street food vendors you’ll find in Sicily’s capital.

My favorite–can you tell from the photo?–is Il Capo. To me, it feels just right. It has a bit of everything: pop-up street food vendors, fresh cheeses and breads that arrive daily from the surrounding mountain villages, outstanding fruit, vegetable, and spice stands… and singing fish mongers! We’ll be visiting Il Capo during Southern Secrets: Campania and Sicily’s Hidden Corners, June 28-July 7, 2019. Join me of Experience Sicily and Danielle Oteri of Feast on History for this beyond the ordinary tour.

We are offering a special incentive registration price until Dec. 15. Find out all of the details at

Contact me at, and I’ll show you the way!

(Photo Credit: Due Still Wedding Photography)

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