The Belly Button of Sicily

Considered the “belly button of Sicily,” the small city of Enna holds court in the center of the island region. It has been strategically important since the Sicanian era (the population before the Greeks and Romans). The citizens of Enna are very proud of their medieval heritage, and especially proud of their castle, the Castello…

Holy Week in Sicily: Enna

Holy week, the week between Palm Sunday (this coming Sunday) and Easter, is a solemn, yet exciting time in Sicily. Last year, I featured the events in Trapani for “I Misteri,” the city’s magnificent Good Friday procession. This year, I’m going to feature photos taken in Enna by my cousin Filippo Buttitta, like this one…

One Ostrich, Two Ostrich

The corridor of the Ambulatory of the Big Game Hunt at the Roman Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina has been called a “map of the world,” by some scholars. Capped by two floor lunettes on either side, one representing Mauritania, a country in Africa, and the other India, the extraordinary mosaic scenes along the…

‘Tis His Season

The current grape harvest season makes me think of Dionysus (The Romans called the God of wine Bacchus.). This is a terracotta bowl fragment featuring a relief of Dionysus, god of wine, vegetation, theater, and ecstasy, from Morgantina, an ancient Greek town in Sicily (3rd to 1st century B.C.E.).

A Bride and A Drum 

When I learn how old an object like this vase from Sicily is, it puts things into perspective. I was thrilled to see this in person at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York a couple of weeks ago. Dated to have been made between 300 and 200 B.C.E., this polychrome terracotta jar associated…

Persephone’s Guidance 

As the seasons change where I live in the northeastern United States, and the days are darker longer, I turn to Persephone for assistance during the transition to winter. Part of the “Queen of the Underworld’s” responsibilities, once she descends into Hades each autumn, is the role of psychopomp–a guide for new souls crossing over;…