You have to go through the tunnel to arrive at the light. When wandering the medieval streets of Erice, Sicily, politely peek through doorways. The homes, just like the town itself, are fortifications. So, behind the seemingly drab (but functional for protection) front walls are charming hidden courtyards and gardens.
Palermo’s Porta Nuova (or New Gate), is adjacent to the Palazzo dei Normanni and at the south end of the city’s principal north-south boulevard, Corso Vittorio Emanuele. When entering Palermo from the south (i.e., by land versus by sea), it welcomes you with its four atlases depicting Moors–two with their arms amputated and two with…