My highlight of today’s adventures in Palermo, in terms of sightseeing, was a visit to the private museum, Stanze al Genio, a collection of majolica ceramic floor tiles focused on designs from Naples and Sicily created from the end of the 16th century to the beginning of the 20th century. Housed in the 17th-century Palazzo Torre Piraino in Palermo’s historic center (precisely Kalsa, for those who want to know), when Julia and I stepped through the door of the antique palazzo, we walked through the ground-floor stables (There aren’t animals in these quarters any longer, but I finally understood the concept of the family’s stables being below the main living areas of such a home.).

An appointment is required to visit Stanze al Genio museum, so, be sure to call ahead, because slots fill-up! Such a planned visit is well worth it if you are a ceramics fan like me. The co-owner and guide spent a full hour with us explaining in-detail the history, materials, and relationships between the various tile designs (By the way, did I mention, it’s actually the owners’ residence?). It’s really a site to see, and definitely an off-the-beaten-path experience. Come with me, I’ll show you the way!